It isn’t difficult to find mites whenever taking macro shots.  They are everywhere and you really just have to turn over a leaf that is decaying on the ground to find one.  Photographing one, though.  Well that’s a different story.

Complicating getting a good photo of one of these little buggers are two things.

1) They are extremely small.  The shot above was taken at 5x – and even then I cropped it.

2) They move rather quickly and do not sit still

About a week ago, though, after not finding much anything else to photograph that day, I decided to take my chances.

I spent a good twenty minutes tracking this little mite as it wandered across this leaf.  Most of my shots were blurry – it isn’t easy tracking something at 5x – but unlike past attempts I kept at it and got some decent ones.

Of course, I have absolutely no idea what species this is.  As there are over 45,000 described species of mites and scientists estimate this makes up about 5% of the total species out there, I’m not going to try very hard to figure it out.  Mites are arachnids – just like spiders.  However, they’re not spiders – but are related.

Another interesting fact is that one of the strongest animals on earth is a mite.  It can carry 1182 times its own weight.  I did a quick search on what that would mean, and it’s roughly equivalent to one of us picking up this boat.  Remind me if I’m ever reincarnated as something extremely small, to not mess with a mite.

Of course, most of us know mites as garden pests or waste bin pests.  I doubt this particular one is of any concern as I found it by a trail near my office.  I strongly suspect that these particular mites have a big part in the decomposition of leaves and creation of soil.  In that respect, they’re probably partners (or predators) of our friend the springtail.

So what are the lessons I learned from my little pal the mite?  Well, for one when faced with a difficult subject – take lots of shots.  Also, just because something is difficult doesn’t mean with some patience it’s not possible.  I had numerous opportunities to photograph these in the past, but didn’t bother to have the patience until now.

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I take most of my fly images with my MP-E 65.  Once in awhile I use my 180L but I like the larger size of the fly that I can achieve with magnifications higher than 1x.  Of course, this requires that I get even closer to the fly.  When I use my 180L, it is much easier to get shots but I tend not to like them as much unless it happens to be a large fly.  For lighting, I always use a MT-24EX.  For the most part, taking high quality pictures of insects with only ambient light is not practical.

The problem most people have is not in the gear, but in scaring the fly off.  Flies are very skittish (they are used to us swatting them) and will take off at a moment’s notice.  Even today the majority of flies I attempt to photograph take off before I can get a shot off, but with patience I can get the shots I want.  The first piece of advice that most people offer is to not get in the fly’s light.  I have found this rule to also be true, so it is always a good idea to know where the sun is.  This also makes it a bit easier to photograph flies on overcast days.

As is true with all insects, mornings, late afternoons, and colder days are the best times to photograph.  However, I have noticed that many types of flies only come out when it is warm and sunny.  You can find flies in almost all types of weather, and certainly it is a good idea to start out on cold days, but you’ll also have to get used to photographing them on the hot, sunny days as well if you want more varieties of flies.

On the hot, sunny days, I try two different strategies.  The first strategy, which I find does not work as well, is to work very softly and keep a lookout.  When you see a fly, slowly approach it with your lens and hope to get close enough to get a shot off.  This is how I search for a number of different insects, but has a high failure rate.  More often than not the fly gets away before I even have a hope of getting a shot off.  However, with patience I eventually find a fly that is more patient.

The other approach, which requires more patience, has a much higher probability of success.  Basically you find a spot where flies seem to frequent and you “set up shop”.  Basically sit down, sit still, and wait.  Eventually, when you see a fly, slowly move your lens toward it.  Since you were already there, it will pay less attention and you’ll have a better shot of getting it.  In my experience, I also notice a number of other insects that I would not have otherwise noticed.  The shot above used this technique.  The other major advantage of this method is you often get more shots off of the fly.

In terms of framing, always try to get the fly from the front.  Side and back views (which are all too common) are just not interesting.  It might take a bit more patience to wait for the fly to face forward, but the end shot will be worth it.  I don’t bother even taking the shot if the fly is facing the wrong way.  Some side shots, though, can be interesting.

The main key is to keep in mind the way the fly is facing as you want the shot to be interesting for your viewers.

One thing to take away from all of these approaches and advice is that you must be patient.  Fly photography is something that is best done in solitude, with no one to distract you.  It is also something that usually fails when you are in a hurry.  However, with some patience and time you’ll find that these shots are not very difficult to achieve.

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