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This typically is not a review website, but in some cases I feel that I need to share something. In this case it is Zerene Stacker. Zerene Stack is an application that allows one to create a single image out of multiple photos taken with different parts of the image in focus. In my opinion, this is an essential piece of software for every insect photographer to own.
There are a number of stacking applications out there, but what sets Zerene Stacker apart is its ability to align photos. This is critical for insect photography as most photos are hand held. This means that the chances that they will perfectly align are practically nil.
Zerene Stacker is extremely easy to use, though it does contain an impressive list of options. It also contains a very powerful retouching feature that allows one to explain from which image to take different parts of the final image. This is extremely useful in a number of cases, though with care I have found that it is often not necessary. Typically I use the retouching feature when I specifically do not want a particular part of the final image to be in focus. Often this is for artistic reasons. I want the insect to be in focus but not this part of a leaf, etc.
There’s a common expression that a picture is worth a thousand words, so without further ado I’ll show you what it can do.
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Posted 1 year, 8 months ago at 12:39 pm. 1 comment
Dandelions have always been one of my favorite subjects – in particular the seeds as they fall. Sure, they’re weeds – but they’re graceful weeds.

This particular image is a focus stack from two images. I have been working a bit more with focus stacking using Zerene stacker and find it very useful – in particular for someone like me who does not have a lot of time.
Dandelion seeds can actually be rather tricky to photograph. I usually find that more than 1:1 magnification is required so I use my MP-E 65 anywhere from 1:1 to 2:1. Generally the seeds do not stay still so a flash is required. It can be quite tricky though getting the seed in your viewfinder and in focus as they tend to sway quite a bit in the wind – causing the seed to come in and out of my viewfinder.
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Posted 2 years ago at 2:15 pm. 5 comments
Recently I pondered a bit how to break the 5x barrier in terms of macro magnification. While my MP-E 65 provides magnification up to 5x, of course I had to wonder about progressing beyond this. I read a bit about using bellows, reversing lenses, and other techniques, but all of them seemed rather a pain. For instance, bellows really aren’t practical when photographing out in the field.
It then occurred to me that the answer was quite obvious. First, by switching to my 7D instead of my 5D2 I reached an effective magnification (compared to my 5D2) of 8x. Second, I was curious if my 1.4x extender would work with the MP-E 65 – so I fit it on to give me an effective magnification of 11x. I decided to ignore the inevitable diffraction and try it out.
After trying it out on the carpet, I decided to find a real subject so I went outside with my contraption. I quickly found a fly that was temporarily willing to be a still subject – or at least up to 3x when it flew away.
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Posted 2 years, 1 month ago at 3:30 am. Add a comment
For a fun post, I thought I would cover the progression that a macro photography typically makes. This covers both where I have started as well as where I hope to go.
Stage 1
In this stage, you can recognize what insect the photo is of. With these shots, you feel it is extremely cool that you caught the insect on camera. What you miss is that the framing may be awful, the insect is out of focus, and the lighting may be poor.
Here is a good example from when I first bought my camera. You can see that this is a fly, but it is looking the wrong way, is too small for this shot, and should not be centered in the viewfinder. The focus could also be improved.
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Posted 2 years, 11 months ago at 12:52 pm. Add a comment
One of the single biggest problems new macro photographers have is the issue of focusing. This is particularly evident in insect shots, where most of them are a bit out of focus. In this post, I will provide some tips for focusing.
First, if you are using autofocus at all when shooting macro, turn it off. In macro, when you change the focus using the focus ring, you are actually changing the magnification. Generally, you care what the magnification is on a given shot. The camera, on the other hand, has no idea. Therefore, do not let the camera do this for you. Set the magnification yourself (most macro lenses have it printed on the barrel) and focus by moving towards and away from the subject.
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Posted 2 years, 11 months ago at 4:00 pm. 3 comments
For some time, I have made use of a pair of Wimberley macro brackets. Now that I have used them in a number of different situations, I thought I would share my experiences with them.
I had looked at brackets for several months prior to buying these. In terms of macro brackets, the two main competitors are Really Right Stuff and Kirk Photo. After some consideration, I chose the Wimberley macro brackets, but for those interested the following are the reasons I did not buy the other choices.
Really Right Stuff – For awhile, this was my first choice. Only when I learned about the Wimberley brackets did I change my mind. In order for the bracket to work with the MT-24EX, I needed to buy another flash mount. Also, I needed at least one telescoping arm to get the flashes past the lens. Therefore, the price came out a bit higher than the Wimberley solution.
The main reason I chose the Wimberley was flexibility. The RRS solution is nice – but the Wimberley brackets can literally bend in almost any direction. The RRS brackets are limited by the flexibility of the arm – which can be rotated around the bracket and extended.
Kirk Photo – This solution looks a bit more flexible than the RRS, but looks a bit flimsy. I hesitated whether it would take a 580EX without issue or something heavier. It is also not as flexible as the Wimberley.

Iguana taken in Mexico’s Riviera Maya. Canon 180mm macro with two Wimberley lights. 1/125 f/7.1.
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Posted 3 years, 4 months ago at 1:28 pm. Add a comment
Recently I lent my MP-E 65 macro lens to two colleagues at work. Both are very good photographers but had never used this lens before. Interestingly, neither one was able to come up with decent shots from the lens.
Comments that I heard were
“I just don’t have that much patience.”
“I took a number of shots, but they all came out blurry”

I feel like some sort of zen master, when I prognose that the reason that they failed to take good shots had nothing to do with their photography skills (they’re both better than I), but that they were unable to find their inner peace to use the lens correctly.
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Posted 3 years, 7 months ago at 1:12 pm. 1 comment
When I first started taking macro photographs, I thought for sure that all closeup shots of flies were fake. How could they get the fly to stay still for so long? After a number of failed experiments, I finally managed to get my first fly shot. After that, I slowly figured out the hard way how to get closeup pictures of flies, which I now do rather often. Once you learn how it’s done, it’s really not overly difficult.
I take most of my fly images with my MP-E 65. Once in awhile I use my 180L but I like the larger size of the fly that I can achieve with magnifications higher than 1x. Of course, this requires that I get even closer to the fly. When I use my 180L, it is much easier to get shots but I tend not to like them as much unless it happens to be a large fly. For lighting, I always use a MT-24EX. For the most part, taking high quality pictures of insects with only ambient light is not practical.
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Posted 3 years, 7 months ago at 2:03 pm. 1 comment
On a recent post I received a question over how the Canon 500D diopter compares with a true macro lens. When I first bought my camera, I knew I wanted to do macro but I didn’t have the money for a true macro lens. I wound up purchasing the Sigma 80-400 4.5-5.6 OS lens along with the 500D diopter. I quickly fell in love with macro photography and saved up for a true macro lens and once I had one I eventually sold the 500D. The following is a shot I took with the 500D when visiting the zoo with my kids.
However, let’s get more specific on the differences between a diopter and a true macro lens.
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Posted 3 years, 7 months ago at 12:19 am. Add a comment
Macro photography is easily my favorite type of photography. Given that travel is also one of my great passions, it makes sense to combine the two. After having taken macro equipment on my last several trips – to Thailand, Israel/Jordan, and Mexico, I have learned a bit about what equipment to bring and what not to bring.
First of all, you have to be very realistic about the place you are going to? What types of macro pictures will you really take there? While macro photography can be done anywhere, some types of trips make certain types of macro photography difficult. For instance, my wife and kids generally will not sit around and wait while I setup a tripod to take a picture of a flower. While I occasionally use a tripod for my flower pictures in gardens around Seattle, I never use a tripod for macro photography on vacation (I do use one for sunrise/sunset and night shots though). The following are my experiences on different types of vacations.
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Posted 3 years, 7 months ago at 12:20 pm. 1 comment