Macro photography lighting
Of all the equipment necessary for macro photography, it seems like lighting is the most controversial. I think lighting in general is considered an “unnecessary evil” by many photographers. After all, few photographers would argue about putting down the money for a good 70-200 or 24-70 2.8 lens (assuming they have that much). However, I constantly hear of attempts to make cheap lighting solutions – such as building a simple diffuser for $5 rather than buy a real one for $30 or buy a faulty remote switch for $10 off Ebay rather than buy Canon’s for $60. The fact is, in many situations lighting is more important than the lens. The true pros have known this for a long time – just take a look at what Profoto lights cost. With portrait photography, lighting can make or break a shot.
Here’s the ugly truth, for the majority of macro photographs natural light simply won’t cut it. Yes, there are exceptions of course. I once had a discussion with another photographer on whether the MT-24EX (or the MR-14EX) is necessary when using the MP-E 65. His answer was that he does abstract photography at F2.8. Well, if you want to take blurry pictures at F2.8 (and I must admit that his look quite nice) then you do not need lighting. If you object is stationary, you can use a tripod and macro rail and unnatural lighting may not be necessary – though you will probably find some reflectors and diffusers helpful. For insects and flowers bouncing in the wind though, you will need some lighting.
There are a variety of lighting solutions you can use and there are even more custom solutions out there. The key gotcha in macro is that your standard on-camera flash will not work. It has to do with the angle between the flash and your lens. Because you are getting very close to the subject, your lens will block some of the light. In a number of situations you will also need the light to be powerful – meaning almost right on your subject. On camera flash simply cannot do this. Note that by “on-camera” I mean both the popup flashes you find on some camera models and the hot-shoe flashes (such as the Canon 580EX) that you can buy. There is a difference though. While the popup flash is practically useless for macro, a hot shoe flash can be made useful if you can direct the light better to your subject or get the flash off the camera.
To get the flash off the camera, simply buy an extension cord. They are not very expensive and are well worth it. If you follow strobists, you can also use his techniques for off camera. Another solution is to create a reflective “tunnel” that goes from the flash mounted to the hot shoe to the front of the lens.
When I first started in macro photography, I would manually hold the flash off the camera. I used a tripod to hold the camera and I held the flash and the remote trigger. This took decent photos, but eventually I wanted more. “More”, meant a solution specifically for macro.
Canon happens to sell two different lighting solutions for macro. Nikon also has solutions, but I am not as familiar with them. At the low end is the MR-14EX, which is basically a ring flash. At the high end is the twin flash MT-24EX. There is, of course, debate on which is better. Those who favor the MR-14EX say the MT-24EX is too harsh (the flashes are bare vs. the MR-14EX diffused) and they prefer the effect of the MR-14EX. Those who favor the MT-24EX like its increased versatility and feel the light from the MR-14EX is too flat, too with MR-14EX favorers respond that this can be fixed through settings. Personally, I strongly prefer the MT-24EX. It is true that out of the box the lights are too harsh – but this is easily corrected with diffusers. I prefer this mainly because I can reposition the lights as needed and try more interesting effects – such as changing the direction and angles of the lights.
In terms of what type of lighting you will get, this mainly has to do with money. If you can afford it, and you are serious about macro, get the $650 MT-24EX. If you don’t know how much you’ll get into macro, get an extension cord for your hot shoe flash. For an end today, I will show two photos of somewhat similar subjects to show how lighting (and lenses) can make a difference.
The first was taken with a Canon 500D diopter on a Sigma 80-400mm lens with a 580EX flash off the camera. Notice the shadows and poor details.

This one was taken with the Canon MP-E 65 and the MT-24EX.

Related posts:
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Tags: beginner, equipment, lighting, macro, photography









Macro lighting is one of my big downfalls! I really need to get one of those ring flashes! You ever see those home made ones?
I have never seen one in person, but one I remember involved a ‘tunnel like’ reflector that was attached around the flash and then directed in front of the lens. I’m not sure what material he used - mylar perhaps?
Any suggestions for a low-intensity lighting solution for macro shots of human eyes?
Kirk, I still think the MT-24EX will work well here. If the light is too bright you can adjust the exposure compensation to make it less so. You could also aim one of the lights away from the eye or you could bounce the light off a nearby sheet of paper.
I recently purchased a MT-24EX setup and found your series of articles most interesting. You’ve given me many ideas that I will work on.
In your article titled “Macro Photography Lightening” you said, “It is true that out of the box the lights are too harsh - but this can be easily corrected with diffusers.” Could you elaborate on that comment. What do you find works best for diffusers?
I do a lot of work with wild flowers and lichens.
Thanks for your help,
Dave
A lot of other people have different solutions, but I use the sto-fen diffusers for the MT-24EX.